Leave it to Bernarda to negotiate the taxis and busses again!

Mercado

Mercado

This time, we went to the Mercado de Managua.  Now, a lot of the guide books have implied that the market is a pick pocket’s dream, to be very alert, etc…  Honestly, I think those descriptions take away from this cultural experience.  Yes, again, be aware of your surroundings and you’ll be fine.

Face it, no matter where you are in this world – if you really want to act like a victim, go right ahead, but think – how is it really working for you?

Okay, I’m off my pedestal.

My inner 6 year old giggled

The market is a neat place.  Food, flowers, shoes, a hair cut, trinkets, toys and even electronics – what you need versus what you want is here.  We were here to pick up some home-grown things such as these beautiful wood bowls, that I have been given over time from my aunt, as well a beautiful wood heat pad, for Scott; some Joya de Esteli Cigars for the cigar smokers in my life including myself; and that was pretty much it.  The rum I would pick up in 48 hours at the airport – Flor de Caña.

Be sure to hunt around at the market.  For example, one place was trying to sell me a package of 6 cigars for US$25 and I got the box of 10 Joya de Esteli for C$250 marked down from C$260 without me even negotiating.

If you need to change US$ to C$, there are money changers there, and they are usually fair.

Don’t forget to check out the Bar El Bum Bum.  You won’t see bums there, but you will hear booms of music. *GRIN*  My aunt specifically pointed it out to me, and my inner six year old giggled.

DOH!

The mercado is also where I tried to order drinks and the order was completely wrong.  Let’s see, I ordered “jugo naranja y medio-litro de Coke por aqui” – In short, orange juice and a 500ml bottle of Coke.

What I got was “jugo manzana y 1L de Coke por aqui” – Apple juice and a 1L bottle of Coke.  And it turns out the glass bottles you have to get poured into a plastic bag in order to get it to take out – which Tim actually wanted.  Oh well, I did my best and hey, if that is the only thing that went wrong while I was in Nicaragua, great!

Needless to say, other times where I ordered drinks didn’t go as horribly, and really I’m laughing about it as I write this.

Pollo Tip Top!

We headed back home and then out for a late lunch at Pollo Tip Top.

Seriously KFC, you were run out of Nicaragua because Tip Top rocks.  Seriously, it wasn’t greasy, it was hot, it was tasty, and the best chips!

And I embarrassed myself (avergonzado, not embarazada which means I’m pregnant) to a certain degree.  I ate too many pieces of chicken – and I’m not sure if I horrified or impressed the kids.  I admit, I was hungry, and that was my fault for not eating more at breakfast – and hey, no one wanted the last piece of chicken.  I rest my case. *GRIN*

At the mall!

From there, we caught the bus to Galerias Santo Domingo to go to the movies to celebrate Bernarda’s birthday where Stephen and I saw Johnny English with subtitles in Spanish.  I highly recommend the film if you’re  a James Bond fan.

Coffee, a bus, and cake later, we were home. I highly recommend the Tres Leches at Casa del Café.

Pochomil

Today was the day we went to the beach:

View Larger Map
Birmania did not go on the excursion to Selva Negra as she was studying English in the equivalent of summer school, so this was a chance for her to spend time with Stephen, her grandmother (my aunt), her dad, her siblings and me.

But firstly, we had to teach Stephen an important lesson in the local language.  We were telling him that this sign means, “Don’t piss your grandmother off”:

"Don't piss your grandmother off" or "Don't walk on the grass"?

Or is it don’t walk on the grass?  I forget!

Hilux

After picking up the Toyota Hilux that fits five in the cab, and two boys in the back; we stopped of at La Unión to pick up groceries.

A few things struck me about the grocery store – and this is not the first time I walked in to one in Nicargua, but here are my notes:

• Firstly, if you are what you eat, then I’m not eating pan Bimbo Blanco.  Yes there is a well known brand called “Bimbo”.  Okay, it’s actually not that bad, but still quite funny.
• The only other place where I have seen milk sold in 900ml bags is Newfoundland.
• Kellogs is straight up when they call Frosted Flakes, “Zucaritas”!
• Smoking is not something that’s really taken hold in Nicaragua which is AWESOME for those of us who hate smoky bars, restaurants and such.  The advertising of the cigarette companies down here is pathetic and honestly, they should just go home.  Remember, “fumar es dañino para la salud”.

Once we were done with the groceries, it was off to Pochomil to the Pacific Ocean and the beaches.  The map says 57 minutes, but it’s closer to two hours on roads with potholes bigger than a Mini Cooper and then cobblestone roads.

Bienvenido a Pochomil!

I will never complain about potholes on Canadian roads after winter ever again.

And I do have to say, Tim’s driving was top notch – and I trusted him implicitly.  There are considerations before you drive in Nicaragua, let alone just in Managua.

Firstly, get used to honking your horn. It’s required, especially if you’re passing a vehicle to signify that you’re passing them so if they have swerve to miss a pothole, they’ll wait until you pass.   Honking is also a way of saying thanks as well, not just alerting attention.

Also people will pass each other regardless of if the road has a solid line or dotted line.  Get used to it.

Beyond that, I can’t think of any other key rules of the road.  I wouldn’t say driving was insane or anything out of the ordinary. If you’re walking cross the road, do be aware that the cars will not stop for you and you could very much get run over.

The Pacific

On to Pochomil – I’ve had several chances to swim in the Pacific Ocean – in Cabo, México; Noosa Head, Australia; San Francisco, CA; and Tofino, BC – I’ve never done it – until Nicaragua.  And I will say it’s the warmest water I have ever gone swimming in.  Swimming with the surf was amazing, and I had a great time throwing Ary, Anly and Stephen in it.

Driving

Lunch included a whole fish – we left the fish head to Anly who enjoys such delicacies.

We stopped on the way back to have sandwiches made by be – Jamón y queso con lechuga, tomate y mostaza.  Incidently, lechuga became a favourite spanish word for the rest of the trip, and upon returning to Canada, I said to Scott, “Hola me poco lechuga” – “Hello my little lettuce” *GRIN*.

Heading Home

Océano Pacific

That was my final night in Managua.  I gathered my things, got dressed up in my clothes for travelling back to Toronto, said my goodbyes in the form of a small speech, and received a new hammock for Scott and me as a gift from Bernarda and Tim.  I gave Bernarda my Spanish > English phrasebook which she used tonight:

Bernarda: “con mi spanish, en la página 117. jajaja. that was amazing.!!!! jajaja”

Iain: Eso fie increíble JEJEJE

Early in Managua

I can tell we’re going to have a lot of fun talking back and forth.  Admittedly, I am being quite shy, but it’s something I will need to get over.

I spent the night at a Best Western that is directly across from the airport.  At US$80 a night, it can’t be beat when you have to be at the airport at 4:00am to check in.

Mexico City

Much thanks to the agent for giving me exit row seating on all of my flights.

One bottle of Flor de Caña and I was set for El Salvador, Mexico City and returning home to the cold temperatures of Toronto.

I highly recommend not connecting in Mexico City as you do have to pick up your bags, go out of security, and check in again with your airline.  It feels like you’re walking through a rabbit warren and for miles.  But that said, it was nice to get the exercise in.

Muchos gracias Bernarda, Bermania, Anly, Ary y Tim. Hasta próximo tiempo.

Lazy Day

Toña

We had a bit of a lazy day on January 10th as we were catching up from our travels, dealing with the heat, and my back was acting up in a bad way.  Enter going to the pharmacy – which was located at La Unión.  La Unión, ironically, is owned (33 1/3%) by Walmart.  Walmart and unions?  Forget it.

Anyway, purchasing drugs at the pharmacy was an interesting experience.  For the muscle relaxants I got over the counter, I would have probably paid $50 (I might be over inflating the cost), they cost us $3!  Not only that but they were made in Colombia!  Okay, I realize I’m bringing stereotypes into my blog.  Anyway, the Mio-Citalgan rocked and really helped my back.

Hecho en Colombia!

We took the kids to the Parque Japones-Nicaraguense where we played soccer and basketball with the kids.  While we were at the mall the day before, Tim and I also got scooters for the kids so Ary and Anly brought one of them to use.

24 Hours in Matagalpa & Selva Negra

The next day we headed to Matagalpa which is three hours, by bus, to the North of Managua.  My Aunt, Stephen, Tim, Ary and Anly joined us while Bermania and Bernarda stayed home.

View Larger Map

Autobus

Firstly, this was my first experience with the bus terminal in Managua, and I wasn’t exactly sure what to expect.  If anything, it was the most uncomfortable part about the trip.  Face it, those of us from Canada stood out like sore thumbs.  The other thing I wasn’t sure about was the pick pocketing that I had read about.  In short, if you’re traveling, just be aware of your surroundings and you’ll be fine.

You buy your ticket from a wicket and from you take your place on the bus – seats are numbered.

When you’re on the bus, waiting for the bus to leave the bus station, a lot of people will come on trying to sell drinks, fruit, and other foods.  So don’t be surprised at this.  You’ll also find that at spots long the way, the bus will stop and people will come on, selling the same things.

Cruise Director Anly/Director de la travesía Anly

Once we arrived, we got a taxi to The Monkey which was a restaurant we decided to eat at before heading to Selva Negra.  After we stopped at the Cathedral in Matagalpa – beautiful and not an ostentatious.  Ary seemed interested in the statue of San Miguel so I got a picture of him with it.

The taxi ride up to Selva Negra – translates as “Black Forest” which was settled by Germans, was fun with the taxi driver explaining things to us about the area.  Five in the back with Mary, Stepehen, Tim, Anly and Ary; and lucky me in the front.

I enjoyed teasing Anly by taking pictures of her in the car, and her hiding her face saying, “Tio!”.

Cabaña

Selva Negra made me feel like I wasn’t in Nicaragua but up north in cottage country here in Ontario.  Firstly, you never see brick buildings in places like Central America and the cottage we stayed in was brick.  Also the temperature was about 18C – everyone was complaining how cold it was, and I was out in my short shirt and shorts. LOL!  Prefect temperature for me!

The food at Selva Negra was great!  The coffee was very good, especially given we were on a coffee plantation.

Sloths!

Tim and I were up quite late drinking rum and, later, me reading the Steve Jobs autobiography and Tim playing with his BlackBerry playbook.  I have two side tangents here:

• Firstly, it’s quite ironic that Tim and I were doing our respective things.  Growing up, it would have been Tim reading a book and me on the PlayBook. LOL!
• Anly came up to me at one point and asked me if the picture of Steve Jobs on the cover of the book was me. LOL!

¡Coffee!

The next day we got up, had breakfast, looked at a sloth in the tree, hiked through the cloud forest and coffee beans and then down to pack our bags up and take the taxi back to Matagalpa, and then the bus home.  We had more of a coach bus going home, with a  movie playing.  I actually finished the Steve Jobs biography on the way back to Managua.

We stopped off at an old tank at the entrance of Selva Negra, which was left over from the civil war in the 1980s.  At one level a neat thing to see, at another reminder of how much the United States used to and still does love fucking around in Central America and world politics.  There, I’ve said it – and definitely something that was on the back of my mind when traveling around.

I was much more comfortable with the bus terminal this time in both Matagalpa and Managua.

BTW Scott just looked up the details about Mio-Citgalan and it’s main active ingredient Carisporodol.  Looks like it’s considered a Schedule 4 medication on watch lists, meaning the USDA is keeping an eye how addictive the medication is.  That said, I did not feel any euphoric feelings and it worked better than Robaxicet, which I will say is actually helping my back these days back home in Canada.

Managua – Day 1

After arriving at the airport, realizing my one bag did not arrive due to how late I arrived at Dallas, I went through the final security checkpoint where your bags are x-rayed before you exit out of the baggage claim.  Waiting for me were Tim who lives in Nicargua; and my Aunt and nephew, Stephen, who had arrived earlier in the day.

Tim, Stephen, Mary

After a taxi ride back to Hotel Los Piños we stayed up and chatted about the journey, certain things to expect in Nicaragua, how not to shock myself on the shower head and that was that.

The first morning we got up, had breakfast of scrambled eggs, gallo pinto, bread and fresh juices; and waited for Tim to arrive.  After talking and playing with the new Blackberry PlayBook, the kids – Birmania, Anly and Ary all arrived and we went swimming in the cold waters of the hotel pool.

Hippo Zone

This was really a day in Managua to get our bearings – so we walked around quite a bit stopping in the Hippo Zone for lunch, going to see Sherlock Holmes en Español at Metrocentro,walking back to the Hotel to pick up our bags stopping at a coffee shop to get out of the rain and then back to Tim and Bernarda’s where we stayed for the rest of the trip.

Christmas gifts were given to the kids, Bernarda and Tim – and thus began the start of Ary, the Nintendo addict.

I was surprised at how cheap the movies were – essentially $30 for 7 of us with drinks.  On the other hand, as I determined later in the trip, clothing was on par with North American pricing and video games and electronics were about double the price.  The food, though, just amazing, and fresh.

C$200

Money, the Cordoba (C$) is exchanged at roughly US$1 = C$22 these days.  The money is made of a plastic polymer similar to what you would find in Australia, New Zealand and coming soon to Canada.

Guidebooks I read seemed to imply that US$ were used more and you do see prices in both C$ and US$, however as I learned, Nicaraguans do prefer to take Cordobas.  You can also get money changed on corners – a bit faster than going to the bank where you’l wait for ages.

640k/sec

Don’t expect fast net access in country.  640kbps was pretty consistant everywhere we went.  Check out the speeds and prices for residential service on Claro.

Masaya – Day 2

Getting up the next morning, after a great breakfast and lunch provided by Bernarda we set off for Masaya – the City of Flowers, but specifically the Volcán de Masaya.

Ary

For the whole trip we let Bernarda negotiate the taxis and bus transit, negotiating down the gringo rate.  Bernarda is not a woman you want to cross given her life experiences and the fact she knows how to use a machete really well.  LOL

Other than the Dina busses donated by Russia, busses in Nicaragua that go between shorter city destinations are typically vans that get filled up with people or smaller busses.  Going to Masaya we were on a smaller bus, and returning we were in a van.

Viajeros internacionales

Volcán de Masaya is an active volcano – you can see the smoke and smell the sulfur in the air.  It features a lookout that you can walk up, and there are also cave tours that you can go on.  The caves are interesting – not only were they were they sites of religious ceremony, but they were used for hiding in the civil war, and bodies were also hidden here during the civil war in the 1980s by both sides.

Bernarda y Tim

After visiting the volcano and the caves, we stopped for lunch at the visitor centre.  I have to say, beer never tasted so good – especially when you’re thirsty. LOL.  I will say, the two beers of Nicargua – Victoria and Toña were tasty.

Tim and I went to Metrocentro and I got replacement clothes for my missing bag as we did not know when it would arrive.  I have to say the service at Siman, which is a department store which is celebrating 90 years in business, was amazing.  It reminded me of what you got at department stores in Canada in the 1980s and earlier.  Very much appreciated!

Ary y Iain

That night we went out and had pizza.  During dinner, we received a call from TACA saying that my bags had arrived and that they were at the house.  We said we were at the pizzeria up the road and they said they’d drop the bag off there. Yes – imagine any of the Canadian or US-based airlines doing they. They can’t even be bothered to bring my bag up to my front door at the condo here! See why I say TACA rocks?

The pizza we had was the best commercial I ever had!

More gaming on the Nintendo for Ary and Anly, more texting on her phone for Birmanya, more teasing of Stephen to learn Spanish and more chatting for the adults. and then time for bed.

On my way!

Needless to say, it was difficult to blog while in Central America.  Yes, I could have written something on my laptop every day however, I wanted to live as unplugged as much as I could, and I’d say I was pretty successful at that given how much I sit in front of a computer at home and work, or with some form of mobile device.

So I figured I’d re-live the trip and write something more cohesive over the next few days about the trip, including pictures.

As you can see to the left, I was ready to go and as I was waiting at Toronto Pearson International Airport, it looked less and less that my holiday was going to start on time.  In fact, my flight leaving for Dallas was two hours late.  Admittedly, I expected TACA to be late, not Air Canada.  Oh well, first world problems.  As I said in this blog entry, TACA were fantastic on many levels which made my trip.  Mucho gracias TACA!

Equipaje

I traveled very lightly this trip, something I have been learning to do as I travel to the USA, and prepared to have two sets of clothes with me in the blue bag, and everything non-essential in the brown bag.  Since we were two hours late leaving Toronto, it meant I had 20 minutes to get to my TACA flight.  I made it, the brown bag didn’t. LOL!

Seating on TACA was great! Most North American airlines have the tray up quite high, and pamphlets, magazines and such down lower.  TACA gives more leg room by pushing everything up.  I like this and more airlines should consider adopting this kind of layout.

El asentar de TACA

What can you do – nothing, just trust the bags will arrive.

Arriving in San Salvador, El Salvador I was a man out of my comfort zone in a country where I had no formal training in speaking the language.  What’s a man to do?  Order a cappuccino con sabor and a Pollo Empanada in Spanish.  I did really well – yeah it’s not *that* difficult but I was proud that I was understood and someone didn’t’ say, “Speak English to me, your Castillano is horrible”, as I have done in French.

And thus started the sponge and desire to learn a new language.  And what a sponge my mind was.  I do wonder how closely linked learning a spoken language and programming language are in the brain.  I’ve got a knack for being able to pick up on certain key components and just running with what I have learned.

Aeropuerto Internacional de El Salvador

That said, I was reminded of the Pet Shop Boys song, Discoteca, from their Billingual album, “I don’t speak the language, I don’t understand a word…” – More than a few times during the trip.

After my walk from one end of the airport to the other, I arrived at Puerta 5 for my 40 minute flight to Managua where I was picked up by my cousin Tim – who has lived in Nicaragua for 15 years; my aunt and nephew who arrived in Nicaragua earlier in the day.

A tourist visa costs US$10 payable to the customs official you first meet.  They do speak English if you need to, but I always recommend knowing a few words of Spanish.

Shocking! Absolutely shocking!

One taxi ride to Hotel Los Piños where we stayed at for the first night, much chatting and then off to my first night of sleep.

Not without a lesson in shocking showers.  See, for those of us who are lucky to have hot and cold clean water running through out our houses in the first world, not every country has the luxury of hot water running throughout a home, nor clean water.  What you see to the right is an electric heater to give you hot water.  Yes, you can see how it’s wired – my aunt gave me specific warnings to be careful in case of a shock.  Needless to say, I got a nice shock down the left arm. 🙂

And that’s my day of travel.