And what a mountain she is.  I am, of course, talking about the Andes.  When flying over the Andes from Montevideo to Santiago, they force you to put on your seatbeats.  Mainly because of unexpected turbulence, but Air Canada doesn’t force it when flying over the Rockies.

I suspect it’s because of how high, and how close you are to the Andes.  Also the Andes have the highest point – 7,000m in South America.  You can’t really tell in the pictures I post below, but we are pretty close, and they are quite jagged mountains, and also possibly weather related.  These are from just slightly higher than 11,000 meters high in the sky.

Two other stories, some of these you may have heard about, one documented in the movie, Alive:

• The Andes Survivors
• A story about a British Caledonian flight on it’s way to Santiago

It’s you’re night to get up and dance Uruguay!

As described at this blog:

Noche de la Nostalgia is a night to stay out late and have fun dancing to the music clichés of the past. Some Noche de la Nostalgia classics are Total Eclipse of the Heart (1983) by Bonnie Tyler and YMCA by the Village People.

Christmas, Hanukkah, and New Year’s Eve all come during the summer in Uruguay. Noche de la Nostalgia provides a holiday celebration to look forward to during the middle of winter.

I’m not sure what my plans are for tonight.  I’ve been, once again, a bit of a hermit here in Uruguay, and I almost wonder how easy it would be to get a taxi tonight to go to a bar right in Montevideo.  In some respects, I wish I had a car, but we know how that worked out, down here – and with a bunch of people partying, etc…

That said, I do hear the police are WAY strict on drunk driving down here – and that is a good thing, given how people drive here.

This is my second last night in Uruguay for this trip and I am glad to be going home. Three weeks is a long time down here.

Admittedly, I am kind of tired of:

• Having to take taxis everywhere
• Having to have the gate of the hotel opened for me to go out for dinner
• Having to have the gate of the hotel opened for me when I arrive back from work or dinner
• Winter
• Dark nights
• Having to really think about what I want to say
• Crazy drivers
• Having to be really vigilant walking across intersections

At the same time I know I am going to miss:

• The weight loss I’ve had down here, let’s hope I can continue it at home
• The vibe of my new coworkers down here
• Asado
• People walking around with thermoses and Mate
• Crazy drivers
• New experiences
• Lunches at El Refugio
• The different models of cars down here
• Jamón y queso para desayuno
• Medialunas
• Orange-carrot juice

I just want to see my husband, cats, family, drive my car, a public transit system, a bath tub I fit in, a hot tub for my back, not be locked in to a compound, my bed, familiar things…

How cool is this? Satellite Internet from the Buquebus – Juan Patricio? 🙂

Usually when I travel it’s usually with some degree of confidence.  But with the big bang of the last trip and being a bit more vigilant, not speaking the language fully, and some of the fears people had mentioned to me – pick pockets and the streets not being that safe here in Buenos Aires, I decided to play it safe.

Now that I know the lay of the land, the next trip will be that much better.

This city is spectacular!  It’s a gorgeous city, much like a combination of New York, London, Paris and various cities in Spain, yet it’s own flavor.

La comida-Excellente!

Thanks to Gustavo, Roberto and Luke for showing me around.

Tomorrow – a 3 hour ferry ride to Montevideo.  I will post pictures when I get back to Montevideo.  In the meantime, Buens Aires, I will be back.

It’s the end of the weekend here in Montevideo and I can’t say I’ve done that much.  LOL

First was the drive home from work:

If there are no lane markings, drivers on the street drive everywhere. It can be challenging, but I did it successfully. Now I understand why taxis take the route by the ocean.

I spent Saturday working and in the afternoon I decided to go for a 10km walk through the city where I went through the downtown area, what I believe is called “Centro” at the meeting of “18 de Julio” and “Contstituyente”.

Since it was the afternoon, I had missed the shops being open – they often close around 1pm on Saturdays, and it was very quiet in the streets.  Everyone was off for their siestas, having lunch, etc…

It was neat seeing how relatively lively the streets were on my walk back around 6pm.

Everyone must have been laughing at me walking in shorts given it’s autumn down here, with trees going bare and leaves falling.  In some respects it does suck that I am going through two winters this year. 🙂

Sunday, I literally did nothing.  I really needed to catch up on sleep so I pretty much slept all day.  I decided to try the Restaurante la Pasiva which is kind of a ‘cafeteria’ like fast food experience.  I had the Chevito Canadiense con Pollo – which was a sandwich with lettuce, egg, cheese, tomato with back bacon and chicken.  It was tasty and hit the spot.  It came with papas fritas – french fries.    They are also known for their panchos – hot dogs.  Admittedly, I’m not sure I’ve seen a table of older women  eat so many hot dogs – averaging two each, until today.  Next, I need to try a Milanesa.

Another cultural thing – I really like how relaxed food service is here in Montevideo.  It does feel a bit odd, given we often like really fast and quick food service in North America.  It’s been fun just to sit back and relax and restauranteurs are happy to let you do that, and use wifi.

I stopped in at Disco – which is a Supermercado – a Supermarket chain here in Montevideo to pick up a few things that I needed.

And now I’m going between watching Brazilian football (soccer), CNN in Spanish, and BBC World.

Leave it to Bernarda to negotiate the taxis and busses again!

Mercado

Mercado

This time, we went to the Mercado de Managua.  Now, a lot of the guide books have implied that the market is a pick pocket’s dream, to be very alert, etc…  Honestly, I think those descriptions take away from this cultural experience.  Yes, again, be aware of your surroundings and you’ll be fine.

Face it, no matter where you are in this world – if you really want to act like a victim, go right ahead, but think – how is it really working for you?

Okay, I’m off my pedestal.

My inner 6 year old giggled

The market is a neat place.  Food, flowers, shoes, a hair cut, trinkets, toys and even electronics – what you need versus what you want is here.  We were here to pick up some home-grown things such as these beautiful wood bowls, that I have been given over time from my aunt, as well a beautiful wood heat pad, for Scott; some Joya de Esteli Cigars for the cigar smokers in my life including myself; and that was pretty much it.  The rum I would pick up in 48 hours at the airport – Flor de Caña.

Be sure to hunt around at the market.  For example, one place was trying to sell me a package of 6 cigars for US$25 and I got the box of 10 Joya de Esteli for C$250 marked down from C$260 without me even negotiating.

If you need to change US$ to C$, there are money changers there, and they are usually fair.

Don’t forget to check out the Bar El Bum Bum.  You won’t see bums there, but you will hear booms of music. *GRIN*  My aunt specifically pointed it out to me, and my inner six year old giggled.

DOH!

The mercado is also where I tried to order drinks and the order was completely wrong.  Let’s see, I ordered “jugo naranja y medio-litro de Coke por aqui” – In short, orange juice and a 500ml bottle of Coke.

What I got was “jugo manzana y 1L de Coke por aqui” – Apple juice and a 1L bottle of Coke.  And it turns out the glass bottles you have to get poured into a plastic bag in order to get it to take out – which Tim actually wanted.  Oh well, I did my best and hey, if that is the only thing that went wrong while I was in Nicaragua, great!

Needless to say, other times where I ordered drinks didn’t go as horribly, and really I’m laughing about it as I write this.

Pollo Tip Top!

We headed back home and then out for a late lunch at Pollo Tip Top.

Seriously KFC, you were run out of Nicaragua because Tip Top rocks.  Seriously, it wasn’t greasy, it was hot, it was tasty, and the best chips!

And I embarrassed myself (avergonzado, not embarazada which means I’m pregnant) to a certain degree.  I ate too many pieces of chicken – and I’m not sure if I horrified or impressed the kids.  I admit, I was hungry, and that was my fault for not eating more at breakfast – and hey, no one wanted the last piece of chicken.  I rest my case. *GRIN*

At the mall!

From there, we caught the bus to Galerias Santo Domingo to go to the movies to celebrate Bernarda’s birthday where Stephen and I saw Johnny English with subtitles in Spanish.  I highly recommend the film if you’re  a James Bond fan.

Coffee, a bus, and cake later, we were home. I highly recommend the Tres Leches at Casa del Café.

Pochomil

Today was the day we went to the beach:

View Larger Map
Birmania did not go on the excursion to Selva Negra as she was studying English in the equivalent of summer school, so this was a chance for her to spend time with Stephen, her grandmother (my aunt), her dad, her siblings and me.

But firstly, we had to teach Stephen an important lesson in the local language.  We were telling him that this sign means, “Don’t piss your grandmother off”:

"Don't piss your grandmother off" or "Don't walk on the grass"?

Or is it don’t walk on the grass?  I forget!

Hilux

After picking up the Toyota Hilux that fits five in the cab, and two boys in the back; we stopped of at La Unión to pick up groceries.

A few things struck me about the grocery store – and this is not the first time I walked in to one in Nicargua, but here are my notes:

• Firstly, if you are what you eat, then I’m not eating pan Bimbo Blanco.  Yes there is a well known brand called “Bimbo”.  Okay, it’s actually not that bad, but still quite funny.
• The only other place where I have seen milk sold in 900ml bags is Newfoundland.
• Kellogs is straight up when they call Frosted Flakes, “Zucaritas”!
• Smoking is not something that’s really taken hold in Nicaragua which is AWESOME for those of us who hate smoky bars, restaurants and such.  The advertising of the cigarette companies down here is pathetic and honestly, they should just go home.  Remember, “fumar es dañino para la salud”.

Once we were done with the groceries, it was off to Pochomil to the Pacific Ocean and the beaches.  The map says 57 minutes, but it’s closer to two hours on roads with potholes bigger than a Mini Cooper and then cobblestone roads.

Bienvenido a Pochomil!

I will never complain about potholes on Canadian roads after winter ever again.

And I do have to say, Tim’s driving was top notch – and I trusted him implicitly.  There are considerations before you drive in Nicaragua, let alone just in Managua.

Firstly, get used to honking your horn. It’s required, especially if you’re passing a vehicle to signify that you’re passing them so if they have swerve to miss a pothole, they’ll wait until you pass.   Honking is also a way of saying thanks as well, not just alerting attention.

Also people will pass each other regardless of if the road has a solid line or dotted line.  Get used to it.

Beyond that, I can’t think of any other key rules of the road.  I wouldn’t say driving was insane or anything out of the ordinary. If you’re walking cross the road, do be aware that the cars will not stop for you and you could very much get run over.

The Pacific

On to Pochomil – I’ve had several chances to swim in the Pacific Ocean – in Cabo, México; Noosa Head, Australia; San Francisco, CA; and Tofino, BC – I’ve never done it – until Nicaragua.  And I will say it’s the warmest water I have ever gone swimming in.  Swimming with the surf was amazing, and I had a great time throwing Ary, Anly and Stephen in it.

Driving

Lunch included a whole fish – we left the fish head to Anly who enjoys such delicacies.

We stopped on the way back to have sandwiches made by be – Jamón y queso con lechuga, tomate y mostaza.  Incidently, lechuga became a favourite spanish word for the rest of the trip, and upon returning to Canada, I said to Scott, “Hola me poco lechuga” – “Hello my little lettuce” *GRIN*.

Heading Home

Océano Pacific

That was my final night in Managua.  I gathered my things, got dressed up in my clothes for travelling back to Toronto, said my goodbyes in the form of a small speech, and received a new hammock for Scott and me as a gift from Bernarda and Tim.  I gave Bernarda my Spanish > English phrasebook which she used tonight:

Bernarda: “con mi spanish, en la página 117. jajaja. that was amazing.!!!! jajaja”

Iain: Eso fie increíble JEJEJE

Early in Managua

I can tell we’re going to have a lot of fun talking back and forth.  Admittedly, I am being quite shy, but it’s something I will need to get over.

I spent the night at a Best Western that is directly across from the airport.  At US$80 a night, it can’t be beat when you have to be at the airport at 4:00am to check in.

Mexico City

Much thanks to the agent for giving me exit row seating on all of my flights.

One bottle of Flor de Caña and I was set for El Salvador, Mexico City and returning home to the cold temperatures of Toronto.

I highly recommend not connecting in Mexico City as you do have to pick up your bags, go out of security, and check in again with your airline.  It feels like you’re walking through a rabbit warren and for miles.  But that said, it was nice to get the exercise in.

Muchos gracias Bernarda, Bermania, Anly, Ary y Tim. Hasta próximo tiempo.

Lazy Day

Toña

We had a bit of a lazy day on January 10th as we were catching up from our travels, dealing with the heat, and my back was acting up in a bad way.  Enter going to the pharmacy – which was located at La Unión.  La Unión, ironically, is owned (33 1/3%) by Walmart.  Walmart and unions?  Forget it.

Anyway, purchasing drugs at the pharmacy was an interesting experience.  For the muscle relaxants I got over the counter, I would have probably paid $50 (I might be over inflating the cost), they cost us $3!  Not only that but they were made in Colombia!  Okay, I realize I’m bringing stereotypes into my blog.  Anyway, the Mio-Citalgan rocked and really helped my back.

Hecho en Colombia!

We took the kids to the Parque Japones-Nicaraguense where we played soccer and basketball with the kids.  While we were at the mall the day before, Tim and I also got scooters for the kids so Ary and Anly brought one of them to use.

24 Hours in Matagalpa & Selva Negra

The next day we headed to Matagalpa which is three hours, by bus, to the North of Managua.  My Aunt, Stephen, Tim, Ary and Anly joined us while Bermania and Bernarda stayed home.

View Larger Map

Autobus

Firstly, this was my first experience with the bus terminal in Managua, and I wasn’t exactly sure what to expect.  If anything, it was the most uncomfortable part about the trip.  Face it, those of us from Canada stood out like sore thumbs.  The other thing I wasn’t sure about was the pick pocketing that I had read about.  In short, if you’re traveling, just be aware of your surroundings and you’ll be fine.

You buy your ticket from a wicket and from you take your place on the bus – seats are numbered.

When you’re on the bus, waiting for the bus to leave the bus station, a lot of people will come on trying to sell drinks, fruit, and other foods.  So don’t be surprised at this.  You’ll also find that at spots long the way, the bus will stop and people will come on, selling the same things.

Cruise Director Anly/Director de la travesía Anly

Once we arrived, we got a taxi to The Monkey which was a restaurant we decided to eat at before heading to Selva Negra.  After we stopped at the Cathedral in Matagalpa – beautiful and not an ostentatious.  Ary seemed interested in the statue of San Miguel so I got a picture of him with it.

The taxi ride up to Selva Negra – translates as “Black Forest” which was settled by Germans, was fun with the taxi driver explaining things to us about the area.  Five in the back with Mary, Stepehen, Tim, Anly and Ary; and lucky me in the front.

I enjoyed teasing Anly by taking pictures of her in the car, and her hiding her face saying, “Tio!”.

Cabaña

Selva Negra made me feel like I wasn’t in Nicaragua but up north in cottage country here in Ontario.  Firstly, you never see brick buildings in places like Central America and the cottage we stayed in was brick.  Also the temperature was about 18C – everyone was complaining how cold it was, and I was out in my short shirt and shorts. LOL!  Prefect temperature for me!

The food at Selva Negra was great!  The coffee was very good, especially given we were on a coffee plantation.

Sloths!

Tim and I were up quite late drinking rum and, later, me reading the Steve Jobs autobiography and Tim playing with his BlackBerry playbook.  I have two side tangents here:

• Firstly, it’s quite ironic that Tim and I were doing our respective things.  Growing up, it would have been Tim reading a book and me on the PlayBook. LOL!
• Anly came up to me at one point and asked me if the picture of Steve Jobs on the cover of the book was me. LOL!

¡Coffee!

The next day we got up, had breakfast, looked at a sloth in the tree, hiked through the cloud forest and coffee beans and then down to pack our bags up and take the taxi back to Matagalpa, and then the bus home.  We had more of a coach bus going home, with a  movie playing.  I actually finished the Steve Jobs biography on the way back to Managua.

We stopped off at an old tank at the entrance of Selva Negra, which was left over from the civil war in the 1980s.  At one level a neat thing to see, at another reminder of how much the United States used to and still does love fucking around in Central America and world politics.  There, I’ve said it – and definitely something that was on the back of my mind when traveling around.

I was much more comfortable with the bus terminal this time in both Matagalpa and Managua.

BTW Scott just looked up the details about Mio-Citgalan and it’s main active ingredient Carisporodol.  Looks like it’s considered a Schedule 4 medication on watch lists, meaning the USDA is keeping an eye how addictive the medication is.  That said, I did not feel any euphoric feelings and it worked better than Robaxicet, which I will say is actually helping my back these days back home in Canada.